WINONA, Minn. – The starter was perfection. For a restaurant emphasizing local sourcing, what could be more seasonal and exciting than a soup of butternut squash and apple? But chef Greg Jaworski didn’t soup there. In the heavy cream base were plump couscous. For a contrast were couscous-size bits of marcona almonds from Spain, sweet and buttery but whuch, added in the final seconds of preparation, retained crunchiness. “From Spain?” you say. “So far from here.” Jaworski doesn’t hesitate to embellish his locally sourced ingredients with what may seem exotica to Minnesota tastes. But he’s unafraid of Mediterranean and other far-away touches. It’s the adventure as well as the comfort tou’ll fund in the Nosh menu. For a generous bowl: $8.50.
Among other things we ordered on a recent visit
:> Crab cases. So wonderfully meaty that the dough could barely hold the cake together. A little heavy with the salt but not overwhelming for Minnesota palates. Two for $16.
> Scallops. Generous size sea scallops with fine chopped asparagus in a risotto smoked feta cheese. Red peppers available, but we weren’t in the mod. Main course at $36.
> Lamb shank. Pressure-cooked to fall off the bone, then roasted to maintain unmistakable lamb undertones. On the side – surprise, this being lamb — a sauce of tomato and okra. This with Middle Eastern baharart rice and parisienne-scooped and roasted turnips and carrots. Main course at $25.
Our rotating band of reviewers, the Galloping Gourmands, roam the region for great places to dine. The panel pays full fare. To assure dispassionate reviews, the panelists don’t identify themselves.
Earlier: Drugan’s supper club
Earlier: Dublin Square
Earlier: Little Miami
Earlier: Trempealeau Hotel
102 Walnut Street.
Mini review
If you can judge fine eating by the heft of the silverware or the solidness if the seating, then Nosh Scratch Kitchen has it. No skimping here. Cloth napkins even Alas, bare table tops – no white linens. But who cares: The menu is over the top.