LACROSSE, Wis. – Why not? It was Irish Fest weekend in LaCrosse, and our Galloping Gourmands troupe, two of whom have traveled Ireland, decided to revisit Dublin Square for a mid-day meal. Irish-themed menu items were far better than our Irish traveliers had experienced in Eire itself. For appetizers the curds and fries were crisper than any we’ve ever found yet soft inside. We suspect it was the Pearl Street Brewery batter.
> Cheese curds: In an Irish concession to Wisconsin these were local potatoes but with a rich, tangy sauce attributed to Dublin. $10. None better.
> Reuben fries: These also were with Pearl Street Brewery batter. In a concession to Germany, shredded corned beef and sauerkraut were on the plate for dipping. $10. Superb.
Main dishes coveedr a wide range with lots of traditional American fare, but we focused on variations of the kitchen’s staple – a rich gravy Guinness stew:
> Shepherd’s pie. Lamb and beef with peas, carrots and yellow onions, topped with mashed potatoes and parmesan cheese. $13.
> Guinness Irish stew: The same contents as shepherd’s pie but with potatoes in the stew itself and no mashed potato topping. $9. Hearty and delicious but if the lamb. If present at all the lamb escaped the taste buds. To lamb-lovers, you’ll be disappointed.
> Bangers and mash: Irish sausages with mashed potatoes, gravy and vegetables. $13.
> Deep-dried brownie. A dessert to die for beginning with a dazzling presentation on an oblong platter. Don’t cringe at deep-drying a brownie. It’s fantastic. Also on the platter a scoop of Bailey’s Irish Cream cheesecake, and vanilla ice cream with whipped topping and strawberry slices. $7.
Service: Welcoming, informed, prompt lots of smiles. Environs: Clubby and comfortable. Inside and outside seating at a busy downtown street corner. Great people-watching.
The Galloping Gourmands roam the region for great places to dine. The panel pays full fare. To assure dispassionate reviews, the panelists don’t identify themselves.
“Gourmand.” By the Polish master Teodor Lubieniecki. From his early 1700s works at the National Museum in Warsaw.
Dublin Square. On Third Street downtown at the touristy end of Main Street.
Elsewhere in town. A kilt run. What would an Irish Fest be without them — and green no less.