ELBA, Minn. – A farmer called the sheriff’s office about a trespasser driving through his land. A deputy found the trespasser, who explained he was heading for a mossy fallen oak where he had found morels last spring. The farmer, a morel aficionado himself, understood completely. No charges were pressed.

Elusive delicacy. Morels usually sprout in mossy dying oak, elm, ash or aspen. If you know someone who’s picked morels, don’t bother asking where. Nothing is a more closely held secret in these parts.