TREMPEALEAU Wis. – At the fashionable Signatures white table-cloth golf-course dining room in Winona, pan-seared duck breast with red wine reduction is $29 a plate. At the Hy-Vee grocery a frozen whole duck with orange sauce to take home and roast yourself is $18. Right from the barnyard? Negotiable.

Barnyard-fed. These are range-roaming ducks at a Trempealeau farm. You choose the wine. You choose the sauce. Image: Steve Lunde