HOLMEN, Wis. – Supper clubs with salad bars are hard to find these days. But to the delight of our Galloping Gourands, three 1950s-style super clubs are thriving still in a magic triangle north of LaCrosse – Beedles in Centerville, Sullivan’s at Trempealeau, and Drugan’s at the Castle Mound golf course near Holmen. Our latest 1950s excursion, to Drugan’s, renewed delightful memories and comforted our palates, albeit two disappointments: The signature Drugan’s lutefisk and lefsa are offered now only in winter months. A Norwegian homage remains, however, at the salad bar. A rich selection of vool greens, pastas and fruits is laid out in scaled-down Viking longship hull with a fierce dragon raising its scaly head at the tail prow and stern. The scoop-yurself soup te day of our visit was scrumptuous — a creamy bacon-laced chowder . The menu is true to yesteryear:
> Tenderloin Tips. This grilled dish dates to 1948 in Drugan’s early days. A savory sauce is loaded with bacon and mushrooms. One disappointment: The kitchen didn’t get the message for rare, although the tips were still juicy. $19.
> Chicken livers. This unusual item nowadays is offfered either as an appetizer or main dish. We suspect the kitchen misread our order for the appetizer. The plate that arrived was heaped with enough liver for a Norse horde, all braised and loaded with bacon. $11.
> Shrimp cocktail. What could be more retro than shrimp cocktail. $9.
The Galloping Gourmands roam the region for great places to dine. The panel pays full fare. To assure dispassionate reviews, the panelists don’t identify themselves.
Earlier: Our galloping gourmands: At Dublin Square
“Gourmand.” An oil by he Tuscan master Pietro Torrini, who spoofed gourmands in the 1500s.
Drugan’s. Fifteen minutes north of LaCrosse off U.S. Highway 35.
Seating tip
Ask for a window table for an overview of the wooded rock formation that encases an outdoor wedding cove, around which the 18-hole Castle Mound golf course bends.